![]() ![]() Wild estimates or assumptions on required forces and weights to ensure effective braking is dangerous in my books. Maybe you are just heavy on the brakes and accelerator causing a lot of sudden / sharp movements on the damper? This excessive movement will wear out any damper / shock very quickly. After braking there is a lot of movement on the damper again when you take off. I am no expert but believe your caravan`s brakes might not be adjusted correctly, causing too much movement on the damper when you brake before your caravan`s brakes engages to assist with the braking. I am sure nobody need to explain this or the consequences / effect on your vehicle`s brakes and stability to you. Gradual / slow braking might not even cause enough movement on the damper to engage the brakes. ![]() The stiffer damper will need more force to overcome the resistance before your caravan`s brakes engages. I am not sure if my Trailco hitch was designed for the standard strutt only so this problem may not apply to all Trailco hitches. Because of the tight work-space I first drilled a series of shallow holes then used a small metal grinder attached to a Dremel drill to level it off. After 3 years ( and about 6000km ) the brake damper/strutt on the Trailco hitch of my 2000 Sprite Splash failed again, so I decided to replace it with the heavy duty AL-CO strutt - normally a fairly easy DIY job which can be done without having to remove the nose cone of the van.Īfter unsuccessfully getting the new strutt to fit I removed the nose-cone to investigate further.įirstly, the diameter of the mount at the piston rod (rear end ) is 6mm wider than the standard strutt, preventing the line-up with the mounting bolt so I had to grind it down by 3mm to get it to fit.Īlso, the diameter of the cylinder section of the heavy duty strutt is 3mm wider than the standard strutt - this caused it to bind on the tow hitch support brace, so the brace also had to be ground down by about 2 to 3 mm. ![]()
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